Nitmiluk National Park (Katherine Gorge) 23rd - 26th August

We decided to drive to Katherine in one day rather than splitting the drive over two. Subsequently we were in the car for over 5 hours. But it was worth it, as much of the drive was nondescript and there was nowhere appealing to stay. It was marked by our depatrure from Western Australia and our entry into Northern Territory. We arrived into Katherine about 3pm and it was HOT !!! Quick stop at the visitor's centre and we decided to camp out at the gorge rather than in town. So back in the car to drive another 30km. On arriving at the gorge campground we found it to be co-run by the indigenous owners and the national park authority. A simple campground with the benefits of flushing toilets, hot showers and a swimming pool (we have learnt than swimming pools are a necessity in the heat up here, even national parks have them). The campground also came with the benefit of lots of other children to play with and Jasper soon had a new gang and he was quickly joined by Archie, closely followed by Imogen.

Day 2 required a stock up at Woolies in Katherine. Lisa also had a desire for some retail therapy so we set off for the weekly local markets. Its a small market of handicrafts, fresh produce and home made food. After Lisa had had her dose of shopping, the kids were keen to visit the local thermal pools. We swam in the shallow warm, flowing, streamlike thermal springs. At on point it reached a deeper section that had a rope swing. Imogen had a great time experimenting with the height from which she launched herself off the bank to swing into the spring. Jasper soon followed her lead.

On day 3 Boyd and Imogen hired a two man canoe and canoed down Katherine Gorge. They rowed 1.5km to the end of the "first gorge" and then walked to the start of the second, before rowing back. Lisa entertained the boys on the bank for the 2 hours they were gone. Then Jasper had a go in the canoe with Boyd. He very quickly decided that canoeing was not his thing (something to do with the possibility of crocodiles below).

In the afternoon we headed to Edith Falls, which is about 50 minutes drive away. Edith Falls was beautiful. A small waterfall enters a huge pool below. Imogen and Boyd swam the 150 metres to the base of the waterfall. The water below for the majority of the swim is extremely deep. The complete darkness below them was daunting for Imogen (something to do with the possibility of crocodiles below).She returned with incredible confidence and quickly talked Lisa into doing the swim. So Imogen went to the falls again, this time swimming beside Lisa.

Day 4 was our departure day. A quick early breakfast and Lisa set off for a walk down the gorge. We had been in Katherine Gorge for three nights and she felt she hadn't really had the "gorge experience" she expected. She managed to have a closer experience with the gorge as the others packed up. She returned to the campsite to help with the last few bits and pieces of the pack up and then it was off to Kakadu.

Lake Argyle 20th - 23rd August

On leaving the main highway after Kununurra we proceeded along a narrow road to Lake Argyle .The next 30km were spectacular. The road wound its way through gullies with soaring red cliffs. It was like driving through a stacked wedding cake of green topped red cliffs.

We had been told Lake Argyle Caravan Park has a five star location and a five star swimming pool. On arrival we were not disappointed. The swimming pool sits on the edge of the escarpment which drops straight down to the lake below. An infinity edge allows you to laze against the pool edge and absorb the stunning view, especially at sunset. The pool also provided Archie with a large shallow section in which he could stand and gain confidence. He spent much of his time in the pool dancing in circles in the shallow end singing loudly “ I like it, I like it, I like it”.
We spent three nights and days here enjoying the pool and the scenery. Archie made a friend, a young boy Tyler, who was a few months older. They spent many hours playing with matchbox cars on the rocks and in the dirt.

Warmun (Turkey Creek) 19th - 20th August

We left Fitzroy Crossing with\ the anticipation of a now booked helicopter flight over the Bungle Bungles. Our intention was to reach Warmun, an Aboriginal community with a well respected art gallery and a roadhouse with a few dusty caravan/camping sites. Unfortunately, Lisa never made it to the art gallery but we did find a spot in the dusty caravan park, for the sole reason that the helicopter took off from beside the roadhouse early the next morning. Staying in a roadhouse stop was an eye-opening experience for all as the 2 or 3 other campers who filtered in were an interesting (weird) mix. The one redeeming feature was a small swimming pool in which the children were able to cool off while Boyd put up the tent.
We got through the night unscathed, however, we were awoken pre-dawn by a herd of cows that decided to graze in the dust beside our tent and leave presents for us in the morning. Lisa and Imogen woke with excitement whilst Jasper woke with trepidation. We had breakfast and packed up by 8am (it keeps getting easier) and met the pilot, Matt, at the base. Matt appeared extremely young, probably mid twenties, but seemed to know what he was doing without being overconfident. Archie was distraught that he was being left behind and Matt eased the situation by allowing him to sit in the pilot's seat and hold the controls for a photo opportunity.
Lisa and Jasper sat in the back, Imogen sat with Matt in the front where there were no doors. The landscape from the air was truly amazing but unfortunately photos have not done it justice. the children were also amazed by the scenery and they were mostly silent during the flight as they tried to process all they were seeing. Imogen and Jasper both relaxed during the flight, enough for Jasper to let Lisa's hand go and for Imogen to tolerate the tilting of the helicopter, especially with no door beside her. The 45 minute flight was way too short but gave us a small insight into this special part of our beautiful land. Boyd and Archie enjoyed a chocolate paddle pop and a dry ginger ale at the roadhouse. They were both very relieved when the helicopter returned.
We piled into the car and headed for Kununurra to stack up on supplies before going to Lake Argyle for a couple of nights.

Heading towards Warmun

Fitzroy Crossing 16th - 19th July

We stayed at Fitzroy Crosssing Lodge, a caravan park on the outskirts of town. Fitzroy Crossing is small, consisting of an IGA, post office, tourist info, and two petrol stations. We used our time here to visit Geike Gorge which is about 15km out of town. We went on a small boat trip down the gorge that was run by the national park in conjunction with the Banuba people, the local indigenous community. Geike Gorge has amazing limestone walls, beautiful calm water (very inviting in the heat, 35 degrees plus). The boat trip lasted an hour and was both driven and commentated by a local aboriginal women, who shared a number of insights into both the local environment and the significance of the gorge to the aboriginal people. 

We used our second day at Fitzroy Crossing as a chill-out day, where we planned the next stage of our adventure as we come close to leaving beautiful Western Australia behind. While we planned the kids occupied themselves playing on their scooters and ripstik, making new friends with other children. We managed to get a lot of information from other travellers going in the opposite direction to us. Luckily Fitzroy River Lodge has a swimming pool so it was easy to cool down in the heat when required.

Boyd managed to get his haircut from a retired barber offering haircuts from his caravan.

From Fitzroy Crossing we head to Turkey Creek (Warmun). This stop is to enable some of us to see the Bungle Bungles from a helicopter. Unfortunately, the helicopter only takes 3 passengers, so Boyd and Archie are staying on terra firma whilst the rest get a close look.

Birdwood Downs (Derby) 14th - 16th August

We left Broome bound for Derby and planned to stay at Birdwood Downs, a working horse and cattle station about 20km along the Gibb River Road. Approaching Derby the landscape was scattered with many boab trees of many shapes and sizes. Many of them looked like characters from a stage play. We stopped at the prison boab tree, a huge boab tree that is hollow on the inside in which was once used to imprison aboriginals. After a quick stop in Derby to replenish supplies and look at the jetty where the tide varies by some 11 metres we headed to Birdwood Downs. On arriving we found a small campground where we were one of two campers for the first night. After unpacking and setting up our tent we decided to explore the station. What a lovely place to camp. It has a very relaxed feeling with about eight cabins, a small papaya and banana plantation, a bird house for both chickens and peacocks and a rustic "school of horsemanship". We rose early the following morning to attack more of the Gibb River Road, mostly bitumen, then the dirt road to Windjana Gorge and further on to Tunnel Creek. We were prepared to turn back if the going was too rough for the tarago as we had received varied opinions of the condition of the road. Lucky for us, most of the 80km of the unsealed section had been recently graded and despite putting the tarago through a bit of a beating we made it to both.
The walls of Windjana Gorge rise abruptly on both sides of a wide alluvial floodplain, reaching about 100 metres high. It is a 3.5km-long gorge and after parking the car we started walking in. We walked for about a kilometre into the gorge. At times we were walking between rock faces and under huge overhangs. At times we were walking on the banks of the river within 5 metres of many freshwater crocodiles that were basking in the sun and swimming in the shallows. Imogen ventured too close to one that awakened with a start and launched itself, luckily in the opposite direction, into the water. Imogen launched herself back up the bank.
After our time in Windjana Gorge we drove a further 35km to Tunnel Creek. The road for this section was ungraded, heavily rutted and littered with loose stones and rocks.
On our walk to the entrance of Tunnel Creek Imogen saw a snake. Lisa confirmed the presence of snakes by seeing another one on our return. we walked several hundred metres into the cave that is about 15 metres wide and varies from 3 metres high to 20 metres high. We walked over sandy banks, jagged limestone and through knee deep water. Archie took control of the torch in his usual noisy way. His desire to direct it in a helpful direction was lacking and it became very challenging when all natural light deserted us as we ventured further in. The tunnel opened into a large cavern where the roof was high and home to a colony of bats.
After our walk into Tunnel Creek we drove back to Birdwood Downs for a second night. 
We had organised for Imogen to go horseriding at 8am the next morning before our departure. This was incentive for us to be up early. Breakfast was eaten, tent was packed and trailer was loaded by 8. Imogen had an hour on a horse guided by an experienced horseman, Bud, who was a great instructor and helped build her confidence. At the end of her ride Bud got Jasper and then Archie into the saddle and gave each of them a ride. A brilliant opportunity that eliminated the boys ability to cry "unfair" that Imogen got to ride on a horse but they didn't.
We then got into the car and headed for Fitzroy Crossing.